Overseas journeys 2014-16.

A selection of works on paper done on a journey through Central Asia, Europe and South America between April 2014 and May 2016.

This selection of oil pastel and charcoal drawings is from 450 artworks done over three main periods during this two-year journey. It also included ten months living and teaching English in Zvolen, central Slovakia between September 2014 and July 2015, where a series of studio-based works on paper were produced. (See: Overseas studio artworks page).

All artworks in this section were done out in the landscape and often in extreme weather conditions common in mountainous and desert regions of high altitude and latitude. The drama of the weather is a part of the drawing process for these works on paper and the expressive power of natures’ elements. What I could carry with me in my drawing folder on this, and other journeys determined the size and quantity of paper for these artworks. The art mediums were the type that suited my needs to work quickly and spontaneously out in the landscape. On some occasions, I had to send a folder full of artworks back to Australia in the post, so as to continue without too much weight to carry. 

Essentially, this journey was undertaken as a solo traveller. This enabled me to have a far more direct experience with the places and people I came into contact with. When I use the word “we” in my journal extracts, it is in the context of being on a train, bus or ferry. Not with travelling companions.

As with my previous drawings done on journeys in Australia and other parts of the world, they influence my studio-based artworks.

This page contains journal extracts and artworks of this journey.

Central Asia 2014.

A journey through central, northern and western China, Kyrgyzstan, Tajikistan and southern Kazakhstan from April to August 2014.

Central Asian journal extracts.

I spent much of the day up and around the Langmuzi Monastery, drawing it and the surrounding landscape. I did my first larger charcoal and pastel drawings which mostly turned out okay. This complex of monasteries looked as though they had been recently refurbished, with shiny gold roofs and freshly painted Buddhist images and colourful designs. They were much the same as others I’ve seen in Tibet and the Himalayas, except for the use of bricks. Langmuzi Monastery, central China 2014. 

I spent the whole day exploring the huge monastery, heading off around the pre-ambulation with all the pilgrims spinning the lines of prayer-wheels along the way. While drawing just above the monastery, a Tibetan pilgrim laid down next to me. Soon, this rather big man started snoring loudly. While sketching, a large group of monks held a ceremony in an open courtyard below with lots of clapping, chanting and cheering. A storm was approaching, and it was getting cold but the pilgrim next to me just pulled his yak skin coat over his head and went back to sleep. Labrang Monastery, northern China 2014.  

There were a lot of people up here having picnics in large family groups on this lovely sunny Sunday. I crossed a large stream, then followed a track up a hill where I stopped to draw the main valley with the high peaks of the range behind. It was great to be out in nature again and walking in the mountains. The first time in more than a month. I then followed a side-stream up towards a waterfall but decided to climb up the north side where I found a good track going up into open grassland, and found a good spot above the track where I could see right up the valley to the glacier and snow-capped peaks. Terskey Alatau, eastern Kyrgyzstan 2014.

I followed a 4WD track all the way, stopping to draw twice then at a splendid viewing spot just above the lodges set in a beautiful alpine valley at about 3000m. All the snow from the storm yesterday morning had melted away, leaving lush green fields. On the way up, I passed a 4WD full of Russians on their way down who were bemused by me walking up here, even after I explained I was drawing along the way. Altan Ashalam, eastern Kyrgyzstan 2014.

I stopped by the lake, just beyond the outflow stream and a couple of small farm buildings, to do two more drawings. It was such a beautiful spot to spend a couple of hours up here enjoying the views across the lake and the mountains all around. This lake was full, but all the others lower down were half empty due to the drying climate. There was very little vegetation up here. Just grass and small bushes. Fan Mtns, western Tajikistan 2014.

There were very few settlements on the Afghan side of the border, which only had a dirt road along its side of this steep valley. I found two good spots to draw and managed to get two Afghan men to wave back to me. One was walking along the dirt road, while the other was herding cows off a cliff-face. It was a very warm day, and I got a bit sunburnt while drawing. I had great views of the valley, river and mountains and had to keep reminding myself that I was right on an international border. There were no watchtowers, guards or fences to make it look like one. It just looked like any other river valley in the mountains of central Asia. Khorugh region, s-e Tajikistan 2014.

While drawing, I saw an eagle rising up on a thermal nearby. It had a light coloured neck, tail and top side of its wings, while mostly dark on the underside. When I finished drawing, I set off around the ridge, dropping down then up again to the highest point on the eastern side, then mostly down again with some sidling to avoid another climb. I had tremendous views of the valley and ranges all the way around, before dropping back down to the plains at the southern end of the range. Near Murghab, Pamir Mtns, eastern Tajikistan, 2014.

I headed down to the river to draw on this clear sunny day with fantastic views of the massive snow-covered ranges to the south. I could make out Lenin Peak at 7134m as a slightly higher point on the range. I did a couple of drawings of this view from just above the river, before the wind picked up around midday. I then walked across a steel bridge and along the southern side of the river to the east, then up onto an escarpment with great views towards the town and the ranges to the north. Sary Mogal, Pamir Mtns, southern Kyrgyzstan 2014.

I walked up to some higher ground to gain a view of the lake and valley and to do some drawings. It was a lot cooler up here at over 3000m and very pleasant to walk around these open grasslands which reminded me of the Namso Lake region of Tibet. I then walked back along the lakeshore past numerous yurts and livestock, before having a wash in a lagoon next to the lake while people collected animal poo for fuel. Song Kul, eastern Kyrgyzstan 2014.

I headed off through the town and up and across the rolling bare hills to the highest point overlooking the Kolsay River and up towards the high ranges behind it. I also had fantastic views towards the gorge and out across the vast open plains beyond. It was well over 30 degrees up here and not much of a breeze. While drawing, I was attacked by swarms of flying ants and other insects. They got inside my shirt, in my hair and covered me in bites. It was all a part of drawing outside. Some flocks of sheep and a herd of cows were out grazing the hills below while the shepherds dozed by their horses. Near Saty, Kungey Alatau, southern Kazakhstan 2014.

Central Asian artworks.

Mediums: Oil pastel and charcoal on paper. Dimensions: 31-21cm to 43-31cm (Some are diptychs).

Europe 2014-15.

Living and teaching English in Zvolen, Slovakia, then a journey through Norway, the Shetland and Orkney Islands and northern Scotland from September 2014 to October 2015.

European journal extracts.

It was a cold, damp day with the sense that winter was coming. All the leaves had fallen, and everything was brown and grey. This was how I remembered it in Czechia before winter finally arrived in late December. Days were short with the sun setting at 4pm, so I had much less time to enjoy the countryside, and it was often dark on the journey back on the train to Zvolen after a day’s walk and drawing. Central Slovakia 2014.

The sea wall was one of my favourite spots here and I did some drawings of this and the waves breaking on the rocks below. There were a couple of large wooden slingshots, similar to those used during sieges in the Middle Ages which could sling large projectiles such as rocks or buckets of shit and other nasty things at invading forces. Alghero, Sardinia 2014-15.

It was a good steady walk up along well used and firm snowy trails with plenty of walkers, skiers and skimobiles going up and down. I got my first dramatic vista of the high peaks and upper valley once I was above the tree line, where I stopped to do some diptych drawings, before getting too close under the peaks. I then continued on up to the Chata pri Zelenom Plesi by a frozen snow-covered tarn. I stopped here for lunch in the warm sun overlooking the tarn and with the surrounding peaks high above. Tatry Mtns, northern Slovakia 2015.

I had a walk around the east and south sides of the lake and did some drawings of the fjord 200m below while being eaten by a cloud of midges. I found lots of blueberries to eat and take back for breakfast. The rain started as I walked back around the west side of the lake. Later, the rain cleared, and I could walk up to a peak on the west side with good views towards Stavanger, the bay and all the islands and peninsulas. Preikestolen, s-w Norway 2015.

I managed to hitch a ride with two fishermen all the way north to the Hermness trail which I followed across the moors to the cliffs, then up to the most northern point of Unst. This was a spectacular part of the coastline overlooking cliffs, offshore islands and rocks covered in thousands of gannets and other seabirds. It was quite windy but no rain today, so I was able to do a few sketches. There weren’t any puffins at this time of year but there were plenty of skuas keeping an eye on me. Isle of Unst, Shetland, Scotland 2015.

I walked all the way out to Eshaness Lighthouse, about 3km to the west. I was greeted with the dramatic sight of deep cuts into the volcanic rock with a number of blowholes and sea-caves cut into the cliff-face and collapsed ones forming narrow deep inlets. From near the lighthouse, I did some drawings in the rain looking along the 50m high cliffs of reddish-brown and black volcanic rock with the sea pounding in. It was such a dynamic scene in an ever-changing landscape. I managed to do a few more drawings as I walked above the blowholes and sea-caves along the tops of the cliffs. It was interesting to see how these natural formations were formed and the power of the sea to move rock and create coastline. Eshaness, West Shetland, Scotland 2015.

I walked along a beach and followed a track above the rocky coast around a headland to another bay where I took a short-cut across rocks at low tide. After rock-hopping easily most of the way, I had a tricky bit across wetter slippery sections covered in seaweed. I managed to pick my way through without slipping over or getting wet. I stopped just up the other side on a headland to draw this impressive tidal zone. The trail then continued up to a tower and passed some dramatic cliffs and sea-stacks, then around to the Bay of Birsay. West Orkney, Scotland 2015.

I did three drawings while walking along the west side of the loch, then around the southern end and up the east side. It was a lovely walk by the loch with a couple of peaks off to the west and south-east. For part of this section, I headed across country over the fields and hills to Tongue Village and got a few things in the local shop, then walked down the road back to the hostel and made dinner with a couple of other guests for company. Tongue, northern Scotland 2015.

European artworks.

Mediums: Oil pastel and charcoal on paper. Dimensions: 31-21cm to 43-31cm (Some are diptychs).

South America 2015-16.

A journey through the Patagonia regions of Chile and Argentina, then through western Bolivia, southern Peru and northern Chile, between November 2015 and May 2016.

South American journal extracts.

The weather was okay with the sun coming through the clouds, but the wind was strong at times. It was wonderful to see these great natural rock spires, the lake and surrounding peaks and ridges as the cloud swept across. I moved from different vantage points on the rocky moraine above the lake to do drawings. Some turning out okay, although it was a struggle with the wind and having the spires so close. Torres del Paine NP, southern Chile 2015.

I got to a mirador with great views of Paine Grande to the west, the highest peak in the Torres del Paine region and with the Frances Glacier coming down its eastern side towards the Rio Frances. I even saw great chunks of ice falling off and crashing down to the secondary (black) glacier below. I did a quick drawing of it then headed up further to a lookout with excellent views of the upper parts of the valley. The wind was freezing cold but there were some clear skies, so I did some more drawing until I was snowed on. Torres del Paine NP, southern Chile 2015.

I went down by the river and did two drawings of Monte Fitz Roy as the cloud lifted from the peaks and ridges either side of it. It turned out to be a lovely evening with sunshine making it warm enough to cook outside. It was such a treat to see these mountains after two days of snow and rain. By 9.30pm, there was hardly a cloud in the sky, and it was getting very cold. I saw the sun set on the southern side of the peaks around 10pm on this perfectly clear and calm evening. Monte Fitz Roy NP, southern Argentina 2015.

The wind got stronger in the afternoon, so I had a siesta and coffee in my tent, then another evening walk by the Rio Fitz Roy up to the lake and saw a wild grey fox. In the evening, I walked up to a moraine with good views of the lake, exposed peaks and the glaciers coming down from the Southern Icecap. Monte Fitz Roy NP, southern Argentina 2015.

There wasn’t a cloud in the sky as I looked around at all the peaks and glaciers surrounding the lake. The huge moraines were quite impressive as they showed the different stages of the glacier receding back up the valley. Once, it was all the way passed the homestead where I was camping. Now, the glacier was high above the lake. I did two drawings here on the moraine, then another as high as I could go on the rocky moraine. Monte San Lorenzo, southern Chile 2016.

The massive dark spire of Cerro Castillo came into view as I walked above the saddle and up to the top of Morro Rojo. From the west side of this peak, I had great views of the rock spires, the glacier and laguna below. I did some drawings of these and had my lunch up here and enjoyed the incredible views for a few hours in the warm sun. It felt good to be back here in one of my favourite places in Patagonia. Cerro Castillo, southern Chile 2016.

I spent the day by the lake doing some drawings of it, the high ridges, waterfall and hanging glacier. I then walked up the ridge track through lush forest to the glacier and waterfall mirador. I had a lovely slow walk back down through this temperate rain forest full of wet mosses and creepers. Queulat NP, southern Chile 2016.

It was cool and pleasant walking before the sun came up over the flank of the volcano but then warmed up quickly and the march flies began to swarm as I walked up towards the crater rim. I was walking through a low regrowth area as the lenga forests had been destroyed by the eruptions six years earlier. Many monolithic tree trunks remained as white sentinels marking what was once here. These markers continued all the way up to the rim of the crater. Volcun Chaiten, southern Chile 2016.

I walked to the southern end of the beach and did some drawings of the coast. A big bull and a young cow came down onto the beach nearby as I was squashing black march flies with my thong. It was warm and sunny all day and I only got to see a milky sunset this evening, but it was lovely to sit out on a calm warm evening on the beach and hear the surf pounding in. Ilsa de Chiloe, southern Chile 2016.

Eventually, I reached a high ridge which led to the crater rim. The wind was very strong up here, but the air was clear, and I could see far into the distance. From the highest point on the crater, I could see five other large volcanoes to the north including Volcun Lamin. It was a surprise to see the large crater with a deep layer of ice which gleamed brightly in the full sunlight. It showed this volcano had been dormant for a while, but to the west was some very recent activity with large lava-flows across the bleak volcanic landscape. From here, they looked like black glaciers creeping down a valley. I couldn’t quite make out where this lava had erupted from back in 2006. Volcun Puyuehue, southern Chile 2016.

To the north-west, I could see Volcun Puyuehue and Volcun Osorno. To the west, was the massive bulk of Monte Tronodor, and to the south, stretched the Cathedral Ranges. It was crystal clear without a cloud in the sky. I spent three hours up here on the two peaks and ridge taking in this incredible view, doing some drawings and watching the condors cruising by. Cerro Cathedral, southern Argentina 2016.

I got a close-up of the crevasses cutting through the icecap as the mass of ice moves slowly down. I did some drawings of this area between the icecap and glacier coming down off the summit, then another of Glacier Alerce, looking north-east towards Cerro Cathedral. I had superb views of this wonderful environment of ice and rock and stayed up here until I started to get frazzled by the intense sunlight. Monte Tronodor, southern Argentina 2016.

The colours in the rocks ranged from grey to pink, yellow, brown and white, with a tinge of green vegetation. I was interested in the strongly defined rock strata in the ridges on either side and did a drawing of this looking up the valley to the west, then another of the valley north towards Aconcagua, the highest mountain in South America. It was beautiful and still on this warm sunny day, even above 3000m. Aconcagua, central Argentina 2016.

It took three hours to get here, but I had tremendous views on the way up and from the top. I could see right across the plains to the south, east and north, surrounded by high barren mountain ranges. To the west, I could see the higher ranges of the Andes and did some drawings of the ranges to the south-east. Uspallata, central Argentina 2016.

I found a clean part of the dry salt-lake without tyre tracks to do some drawings. The salt crust was like walking over a frozen lake. There was water underneath and lots of holes where it came through. The crunching sound my boots made was like walking over ice. I sat on the salt and did a couple of very minimal drawings of this interesting subject of vast open space and big skies, only broken by a few peaks on the horizon. Salar de Uyuni, southern Bolivia 2016.

I walked back via the eastern coastal trails through the village of Challa Pampa. While sitting on the beach, I noticed lots of pigs and sheep around, and was mobbed by a gang of piglets which I fed some of my lunch. It was a nice walk around the east coast with views out across Lago Titicaca to the distant snowcapped mountains, then through some villages including Keapata where I had to get out of the way of a stampeding alpaca herding a flock of sheep down a hill back to a farmhouse. Ilsa del Sol, Lago Titicaca, northern Bolivia 2016. 

I then walked down through the town to the rim of the canyon to the west and did some drawings of the deep valley, then further on to the mirador where I had fantastic views down into the canyon and of the mountains above on both sides. A couple of large condors cruised by very close on the rising warm thermals from the valley below. Colca Canyon, southern Peru 2016.

I walked up the hillside through the Inca ruins and stone walls to a mirador above with good views of the vast plains of Salar de Atacama to the south and the volcanoes along the eastern horizon. Just to the west, was some very interesting rock formations known as the luna, or moonscape, with its eroded gullies and layers of different coloured sediments. I did some sketches up here, then returned via the Alto Quitor above the river. Salar de Atacama, northern Chile 2016.

South American artworks.

Mediums: Oil pastel and charcoal on paper. Dimensions: 31-21cm to 43-31cm (Some are diptychs).